Very heavy duty stitching with Dürkopp Adler Class 221 and special sewing drive

Stitching through 5 layers of very heavy leather is a tough job and brings any sewing machines at its limits. Even though Dürkopp Adler class 221 is already discontinued and replaced by the new H867 heavy duty sewing machine, it is still in use all over the world to do this job and often traded by used sewing machine dealers.

Now there is a new, much more powerful sewing drive package available for class 221 that will exceed the limits and make this machine one of the most powerful stitchers in the world.

The package consists of the new DAC sewing drive made by Dürkopp Adler and a better balance wheel together with assembly parts (Order No. 9889 022106 8S). It is recommended to convert machines from the old VD554 control and motor to this solution in case the old motor and control are not repairable anymore, because VD554 is discontinued.

Check the impressive power of this sewing machine in the following video:



Dürkopp Adler Class 221 for heavy sewing operations in leather and technical Textile 



Causes of skip stiches

Skip stiches happen when the hook point could not catch the needle thread loop.
This can be caused by:

• bent needle
• needle is not inserted correctly
• the relation of the needle to the hook or vice versa has changed (needle bar rise, distance between hook point and needle, height of needle to the hook point)
• needle thread loop is not created (needle thread is too elastic or too tight); the movement of the thread take up spring is too big
• the throat plate (needle plate) is bent downwards or the stitch hole is too wide
• the fabric does not rest correctly on the throat plate
• the pressure of the presser bar is too low







Skip stich

Best Practice: Thread beginning always on bottom side of fabric or leather for Dürkopp Adler M-Type

M-Type machines with regular thread trimmer can be retrofitted with a thread clamp that ensures an always equal seam beginning. The needle thread will be pulled down to the bottom side of the fabric or leather and sewn there.

Download installation instruction



Thread clamp that pulls down the needle thread to bottom side of the fabric - for Dürkopp Adler M-Type


This parts kit can be ordered with material number 0867 590984 and can be used in the following actual M-Type machine classes:

667-180112	867-160122	868-190322
667-180132	867-190122	868-290322
667-180312	867-190142	868-390322
667-180332	867-190322	868-490322
669-180112	867-190342	869-180122
669-180312	867-290122	869-180322
827-160122	867-290142	869-280122
827-260122	867-290322	869-280322
	867-290342
	867-392342
	867-393342
	867-394342 AE

 

This thread clamp is already integrated in the machines with short thread trimmer. For those machines, there is a retrofit kit "Neat seam beginning" available to further improve the seam quality.

Best practice: Neat seam beginning for Dürkopp Adler M-Type

The retrofit kit "Neat Seam Beginning" ensures a short and neatly sewn needle thread at the seam beginning.
After the first stitch at the seam beginning, the needle thread is locked by the thread clamp and pulled back by the thread puller so that the needle thread protrudes the material a little bit.

It is possible to adjust how far the needle thread is being pulled back.
The retrofit kit NSB 20-1 with order number 0867 591004 can be used for the following machine classes with short thread trimmer:
867-160125
867-190145
867-190425

In class 867-190146 with short thread trimmer, it is already assembled as a serial equipment.

Download installation manual
Go to product overview M-Type

Effect of the kit "Neat Seam Beginning" for Dürkopp Adler M-Type

Thread tension plate for kit "Neat Seam Beginning" for Dürkopp Adler M-Type

Piping attachments for triple feed sewing machines from Dürkopp Adler

For welting and piping operations in upholstery and leather, Dürkopp Adler offers a large attachment program.
Today we present welting guides for classes 69, 267, 269, 291, 367, 467 and 767.

For details with order numbers, combining tape reel holders and measurements please see this overview.

Seam sketch welting attachment Dürkopp Adler



Piping and welting attachments for Dürkopp Adler triple feed sewing machines

Avoid thread breakage by thread cooling!

Friction between needle and thread, as well as between needle and fabric, often causes high temperatures at the sewing spot, especially in leather, upholstery or technical textiles. This causes thread breakage or sticking when using synthetic threads due to melt residues.

To decrease temperatures you can use pneumatic needle coolings, which can also be retrofitted. The assembly can be done by yourself or by our qualified distribution partners worldwide.



Needle cooling for Dürkopp Adler M-Type


The following needle cooling systems are available:

Needle cooling NK 13-1 from above
Material No. 0467 367959, Details
for classes
467-65-FA-373,
467-65-FA-573,
550-767
767-FA-373-RAP-HP,
767-FA-573-RAP-HP,
767-KFA-573-RAP-HP,
767-VF-373, 767-VF-573,

Needle cooling NK 20-1 from above
Material No. 0867 590014, Details
for M-Type classes

669-180112
669-180312
867-160122
867-190122
867-190122-70
867-190125
867-190142
867-190145
867-190146
867-190322
867-190322-70
867-190342
867-190342-70
867-190425
867-190445
867-392342
867-393342
868-190322
868-190341
868-390322
869-180122
869-180322

Needle cooling NK 20-2 from below by air stream through the feed dog
Material No. 0867 590024, Details

for M-Type classes
867-160122
867-190122-70
867-190142
867-190322
867-190322-70
867-190342
867-190342-70

Needle cooling NK 20-5 from below by air stream through the feed dog
Material No.  0867 590054, Details

for M-Type classes
550-867
867-190125
867-190145
867-190146
867-190425
867-190445

Thread monitors for safe industrial sewing

How to avoid additional cost from material damages? Thread monitors for sewing machines can help and be retrofitted on many Dürkopp Adler machines.

Thread monitors will break the sewing process before the bobbin thread is going to end. This will avoid stitch holes without seam in expensive leather or other fabrics which can make the material useless and increase the material cost.

Thread monitors normally recognize the thread end by photocells, warn by optical or acustical signals and break the sewing process.


Thread monitor: Photocell on the right hand side of the hook.


The following thread monitor assembly kits are available:

For M-Type Class 867 (show details)

RFW 20-1   Material No. 0867 590104
for subclasses -190322, -190322-70,

RFW 20-2   Material No. 0867 590124
for subclasses -290122, -290322, -290322-70, -490322

RFW 20-3   Material No. 0867 590114
for subclasses -190142, -190342, -190342-70, 392342, -393342, 867-394342

RFW 20-4   Material No. 0867 590134
for subclasses -290142, -290342, -290342-70, -290342-100

RFW 20-7   Material No. 0867 590164
for subclasses -190145, -190146, -190445

RFW 20-8   Material No. 0867 590174
for subclass -290445

RFW 20-9   Material No. 0867 590184
for subclasses -190125, -190425


For Class 767  (Details anzeigen):

RFW 13-3   Material No. 0767 367629  
for subclasses -FA-373-RAP-HP, -FAS-373-RAP-HP, -FA-273, -VF-373

RFW 13-6   Material No. 0767 590244 
for subclass -KFA-573-RAP-HP

RFW 13-8   Material No. 0767 590194
for subclass -KFA-373-RAP-HP

RFW 13-9   Material No. 0767 590234
for subclasses -FAS-473-RAP-HP, -FAS-573-RAP-HP, -VF-573


For Class 768 (Details anzeigen):

RFW 13-7   Material No. 0768 590014
for subclasses -FA-273-RAP-HP, -FA-L373-RAP-HP, -FA-R373-RAP-HP, -R374-FLP-HP


For Classes N291 and N292 (Details anzeigen):
Material No. Z134 000451

Vintage leaflets for Adler sewing machines - part 4

The Adler class 104 and class 105 were made for leatherworkers and to sew heavy upholstery. Seems that many chinese machines like Cowboy Sewing, or Cobra sewing machines are more or less clones of these machines or at least based on these old constructions or on the successors class 204 and 205.

Many 104 or 105 machines are still in use or traded as used machines, so we publish the leaflets to make the identification easier.
Leaflet Adler Class 104 (10MB)
Leaflet Adler Class 105 (9MB)

The class 268 was produced in more than 20 subclasses and one of the most versatile models Adler ever had, also often used in shoe manufacturing.
Leaflet Adler class 268 part 1 (11MB),
Leaflet Adler class 268 part 2 (14MB),

Dürkopp Adler continued to produce the old Adler class 269 and took the machine off the product range only a few years ago.
Leaflet Adler class 269 (3MB)

Double chainstich machines classes 370, 371 and double lockstitch machines  class 396 were used mainly in the garment production.
Leaflets Adler classec 370, 371 and 396 (25 MB)

Go to Part 1
Go to part 2
Go to Part 3
Go to Part 5
Go to Part 6

More manuals or parts books of old Adler machines and other important documentation you will find in the
Download section of this blog.

Sewing machine Adler Class 105

Best Practice: High-quality binding in leather and upholstery with class 205-370

For high-quality binding in leather and other heavy materials with Dürkopp Adler class 205-370 sewing machine, there is a sewing gauge with double-folding and moving 45°-binder available.

Due to new manufacturing methods, the selling price could be reduced by approx. 66%. This gives an excellent price-perfromance ratio.

The sewing gauge can be used for leather, home and car upholstery, and regular and artifical leather strips.

The single parts can be ordered with the following numbers:
N015 V91275  Binder
N800 005355  Support sheet
0205 V91281  Throat plate
0205 V91282  Feed dog
0205 V91283  Transport foot
0205 V91284  Presser foot

Other interesting soultions you will find in the Best Practice menu in this blog.

Best Practice: Sewing of narrow curves in home upholstery and automotive upholstery

In leatherworking and upholstery, especially in in automotive interior, often narrow curves must be sewn. For these kind of applications there are special sewing gauges available which can be used in the sewing machine classes 367, 767, 768, 867 and 868 from Dürkopp Adler.

There is also a version for classes 69 and 169 which must be done in single manufacturing yet. Prices for this version will be offered individually by our distributors based on required quantities.

Also new, very attractive prices for 2-needle gauges are offered.

The order numbers for the sewing gauges are:

2-needle gauges:

Needle distance 8 mm:
0768 V91357 Transport foot
0768 V91358 Presser foot

Needle distance 10 mm:
0768 V91378 Transport foot
0768 V91379 Presser foot

Needle distance 6 mm on request
1-needle gauge:
0768 V91380 Transport foot
0768 V91381 Presser foot

More interesting articles you will find under Best Practice in the blog menu.