Sew luxury leather bag handles with Dürkopp Adler 205: Best practice

How to sew high quality handles for leather bags and handbags?  Special sewing gauges on the Dürkopp Adler sewing machine class 205-370 will give you the best results.

The welt and the welt jacket are guided directly by the sewing foot so that an additonal edge guide is not necessary. The distance between the material edge and the seam is always equal and small. This supports the luxury look and feel of the bag handle. This solution produces nearly no waste caused by bad seams or stitches so that you can save a lot of expensive leather.

The price of the sewing gauge parts is not only attractive for industrial producers but also for small manufacturers who already own a 205-370 or think about buying a used one and equip the machine with this gauge.



Sew luxury leather bag handles with Dürkopp Adler class 205-370 and a special sewing gauge


The gauge parts can be ordered with the following article numbers:

Welt (Piping)12mm:
0205 V92264 throat plate
0205 V92265 feed dog
0205 V92266 transport foot
0205 V92267 presser foot

Welt (piping)14mm:
0205 V92488 throat plate
0205 V92489 feed dog
0205 V92490 transport foot
0205 V92491 presser foot



Constant distance between edge and seam for luxury look of the bag handle



How to sew welt into leather bag handle



Material guide within the sewing foot saves additional edge guide when sewing leather bag handles



Highest quality for sewing leather bag handles with Dürkopp Adler Class 205-370



Best Practice: Visual bobbin thread monitor for Dürkopp Adler M-Type

Easy, affordable and effective: Control the remaining bobbin thread quantity through an inspection window and an additional bobbin illumination in the hook area!
The solution can easily be retrofitted with parts kits for different machine classes. The LED bobbin illumination 0867 591244 must be ordered in addition and can be conntected with the power supply 9850 001089.

The order numbers of the assembly kits depend on the bobbin diameter:

The parts kit 0867 591204 (bobbin diameter 26mm) fits for M-Type classes
827-160122
867-190020
867-190122
867-190322
867-190322-M

The parts kit 0867 591214 (bobbin diameter 32mm) fits for M-Type classes
867-190040
867-190142
867-190142-M
867-190342
867-190342-M

Open M-Type product overview


Visual bobbin thread monitor for Dürkopp Adler M-Type with bobbin illumination




Bobbin for visual thread monitor for Dürkopp Adler M-Type

The retrofit kit 0867 591204 consists of the part numbers:
1x 0867 140203 slider, right
1x 0867 150170 spring
4x 0867 150140 bobbin, diameter 26

The retrofit kit 0867 591214 consists of the part numbers:
1x 0867 140203 slider, right
1x 0867 150170 spring
4x 0867 150150 bobbin, diameter 32

Best Practice: High quality top stitching of large leather or upholstery pieces with pneumatic seam center guide

The Dürkopp Adler classes 767 and 768 can be equipped with the pneumatic seam center guide N800 005611. This guide perfectly supports the top stitiching of large and heavy leather or upholstery pieces in 2-needle applications.
The result are high-class fancy seams with an exactly equal distance to the assembly seam.
The up- and downlifting of the guide is done easyly and practically by an intgrated push button. The guide can be adjusted in height by means of a lever. The guide can also be used for 1-needle applications as an edge guide.
To use this attachment, the machine must be equipped with an electropneumatic seam tacking and electropneumatic foot lift already.



Dürkopp Adler class 768 with pneumatic seam center guide

It is also necessary to replace the standard transport feet by special compensating feet:
0768 222264 Compensating foot 6mm needle distance
0768 222274 Compensating foot 8mm needle distance
0768 222284 Compensating foot 10mm needle distance
0768 222294 Compensating foot 12mm needle distance




Pnematic seam center guide N800 005611




Lever for height adjustment



Best practice: How to sew felled seams in leather with special foot with integrated guide

For felled seams in leather normally an adjustabe additional edge guide is used. With the innovative sewing feet with integrated guide from Dürkopp Adler you will not need this additional guide anymore.
Adjustable guides are a great help, but have the disadvantage of slightly varying distance between seam and edge due to manual adjustment.

The advantages are:

• easy handling due to small sewing gauge size and free sewing area
• always correct and constant distance between edge and seam
• constant high quality sewing result

Dürkopp Adler offers tw types of feet (see attached pictures):

• feet with long sword for mainly straight seams
• feet with short sword for frequent curved seams 

All feet are available with integrated guide on the right or the left side of the needle.

Click on the photos to enlarge:

Special sewing foot with integrated edge guide with long sword

Special sewing foot with integrated edge guide with short sword

M-Type 868-390322 using special sewing foot with integrated edge guide with short sword

The whole program with part numbers can be checked in our attachment brochure starting on page 31.

The sewing feet can be used in the following Dürkopp Adler classes (only one-needle machines!):

367, 467, 767, 768, 667, 867, 868, 669, 869